How to Read a Gold Hallmark: Fineness and Karats
How do you read the hallmark on gold jewellery, and what do fineness numbers mean? The easiest way to understand 14, 18, 22 and 24 karat gold marks.
When you buy gold jewellery, the first thing that catches your eye is the design. But the information that really determines a piece's purity and value lies in small numbers that often go unnoticed. Knowing how to read a gold hallmark makes it much easier to understand what you are buying. These little marks are a kind of identity card for the piece.
Most gold jewellery is stamped with a mark showing its proportion of pure gold. Once you learn to read these marks, you can work out the value of a piece you are buying or selling much more easily.
What is the fineness system?
In the jewellery trade, the purity of gold is expressed in two ways: karats and fineness. Fineness means parts per thousand and shows purity more precisely. It tells you how many parts out of a thousand are pure gold.
For example, 24 karat bars are 995 or 999.9 fine. This means 995 parts per thousand, or almost all, of the metal is gold. The three-digit numbers you see on jewellery express the same parts-per-thousand ratio.
The codes for 14, 18, 22 and 24 karat
The lower the karat, the less pure gold a piece contains, and the lower its fineness. Instead of the karat number, jewellery usually carries these three-digit codes.
22 karat bangles and jewellery are stamped 916, meaning 91.6% pure gold. On 18 karat pieces, common in diamond jewellery, you will see 750. Everyday 14 karat jewellery is marked 585. The mark for 8 karat gold, used in some lower-budget pieces, is 333. We explain the differences in our guide the difference between 14, 18, 22 and 24 karat gold.
Where is the hallmark on rings, necklaces and bangles?
Hallmarks are usually stamped in inconspicuous places so as not to spoil the look. Knowing where to look is the first step. On rings and wedding bands, the mark is mostly on the inside of the band.
On necklaces and chain bracelets, it is usually on the clasp or on the small ring attached to it. On bangles, you will find it if you look carefully at the inner surface. Some pieces also carry a small maker's mark next to the karat stamp. You can see different models in our catalogue.
How other countries mark gold
Jewellery bought abroad may be marked differently. Many countries use the fineness system (585, 750) like Turkey, while in some countries a mark with the letter "K" is common.
If your piece says 14K instead of 585, or 18K instead of 750, it means the same thing. Sometimes both marks appear side by side. To work out the current value of such pieces, use the prices on our market page.
Protecting yourself from fake hallmarks
A hallmark is reassuring, but remember that these numbers can also be stamped on fake jewellery. Writing 585 inside a brass ring is technically easy. That is why a hallmark only means something on pieces bought from a trustworthy source.
If you have doubts, rather than relying on the hallmark alone, you can do the extra checks described in our guide how to tell if gold is fake. A carefully stamped hallmark is usually crisp and straight; on fakes it is often faint or crooked.
Does gold with a worn hallmark lose value?
On jewellery worn for many years or resized, the hallmark can wear away over time or be lost during workshop work. A worn hallmark does not mean the piece is fake.
If you want to sell such a piece, the jeweller will check the karat with their own methods. Since the amount of gold in the piece has not changed, its value is calculated accordingly once the karat is confirmed.
Karat and fineness table
| Karat | Fineness mark | Pure gold content | Common use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24 karat (24K) | 995 or 999.9 | 99.5% and above | Bars and gram gold |
| 22 karat (22K) | 916 | 91.6% | Bangles, Turkish gold coins |
| 18 karat (18K) | 750 | 75% | Diamond jewellery |
| 14 karat (14K) | 585 | 58.5% | Everyday jewellery |
| 8 karat (8K) | 333 | 33.3% | Lower-budget jewellery |
Checking for a karat stamp on the piece you buy and asking for a receipt are the basic habits of an informed buyer. For questions, reach us through our contact page.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the hallmark on white or rose gold different from yellow gold?
No, the colour of gold does not change the hallmark. Whether it is white, rose or yellow, 14 karat jewellery is marked 585. The hallmark shows the proportion of pure gold, not the colour.
Is gold without a hallmark fake?
Not always. Older pieces or resized rings may have no hallmark. To know the karat for sure, have it checked by a jeweller.
Does a piece marked 585 dull over time?
About 41.5% of a piece marked 585, that is 14 karat, is made of other metals such as silver and copper. Over time, these metals can cause slight dulling through sweat, perfume and moisture. With proper cleaning, the piece usually regains its shine.
At Erya Gold Kuyumculuk you can follow live buying and selling prices, and reach our store in Ümraniye with any question.
